Sicilia in the footsteps of the mafia

Sicily's vibrant capital is a sensory explosion of colour, noise, and flavour. Navigate the labyrinthine streets of the old town, haggle at the famous Vucciria and Ballarò markets where vendors hawk everything from fresh seafood to dried fruit, and duck into hidden piazzas where baroque churches tower overhead. The Palazzo Reale and Mondello are easily reached, but it's the street food—arancini, panelle, sfincione—that'll steal your heart.

A breezy seaside village just south of Palermo, Mondello offers a complete change of pace—long sandy beaches, seafront restaurants serving the catch of the day, and a relaxed vibe perfect for an afternoon swim or sunset aperitivo. The Art Nouveau architecture hints at its belle-époque heyday, and the lido is lined with colourful beach clubs. It's the ideal break before heading south.

Home to the breathtaking Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples), Agrigento is a pilgrimage site for anyone enchanted by ancient Greece. The sprawling archaeological park contains some of the finest Greek temples outside Greece itself—the Temple of Concordia gleaming golden at sunset is truly transcendent. The modern town above is less glamorous but authentic, with excellent trattorias and a genuine Sicilian character. The temples are best visited early morning or late afternoon to beat crowds and catch the light.

This baroque jewel in southeastern Sicily is pure architecture pornography—a hilltown of pale golden limestone buildings cascading down a steep valley, crowned by the grand flight of steps leading up to San Giorgio church. Stroll the narrow streets, find yourself in sudden piazzas with faded grandeur, and visit the family-run chocolateries producing the region's famous dark chocolate. The neighbouring town of Ragusa is equally stunning and only 20 minutes away, making this a perfect base for baroque exploration.

Perched dramatically on a clifftop overlooking the Ionian Sea, Taormina is Sicily's most glamorous resort town—all designer boutiques, Michelin-starred restaurants, and pastel buildings spilling down to pebble beaches. The ancient Greek theatre is one of the most spectacularly sited ruins anywhere, and the views of Mount Etna rising across the strait are unforgettable. Yes, it's touristy; yes, it's worth it. Stay in the old town for maximum atmosphere and sunset aperitivos on the main piazza.

The gateway to the Aeolian Islands sits at Sicily's northeastern tip, where the Strait of Messina separates the island from Calabria. The city itself was almost completely rebuilt after a devastating 1908 earthquake, so it lacks the charm of older Sicilian towns, but its seaside location and ferry port are the real draw. Spend an afternoon wandering the waterfront and enjoying fresh arancini before hopping the ferry to the islands.